South Caribbean: Cahuita – Puerto Viejo – Manzanillo

December 2024
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The community in the Southern Caribbean, or the region of Talamanca as it’s also known, is surprisingly diverse, with people from 40 different nationalities living within its boundaries. According to the government’s 2000 (and latest) census, 18 percent of the 25,857 population are immigrants, a number that has certainly risen substantially since. Apart from the local population of Afro-Caribbeans, Bribri, and Ticos of European origin, the expatriate community is an eclectic mix from all corners of Europe, Canada, the U.S. and South America, and the most unique in Costa Rica.

On any given day one can hear English, Spanish, Patois, French, Italian, Dutch or Swiss spoken in the street, as well as the Bribri mother tongue. Interestingly, the expatriate community is made up mostly of young couples, as opposed to the retirees found in other expatriate havens. Many are of mixed race with young children, families of developed country descent making a go of a slower but more meaningful life. It’s an area that attracts those of the hippy persuasion, but also those who might have been pioneers or adventurers in another life.

Almost everybody works, either in the tourism business, as a hotelier operating a bed and breakfast, or offering leisure activities. There are ecologists, artists, chefs, photographers, masseurs and beach bums making their own ways in the area. In the last few years a number of real estate brokers have emerged as well. It’s a very active community where everybody knows everybody. As one newcomer put it: “Within a few days of arriving here, I couldn’t just pop into town to pick up some groceries, everyone was talking to me, telling me they’d heard I’d arrived. Literally, you can’t go into Puerto Viejo without spending a couple of hours talking to everyone.” There seems to be few part-time residents. Most expatriates seem to have permanently relocated to the area.

There are several community groups in the area, from the Chamber of Tourism and Commerce, to several environmental groups including a group called ADELA that organized to prevent the government from allowing oil exploration in the area. A movie called “El Caribe” was even made about the struggle. The local community has organized recycling for the town, and another group organizes lifeguards for Playa Cocles.

In terms of leisure activities, surfing is big in this area, with beaches for all levels of experience. The Salsa Brava, which means something like “hot sauce,” is the most challenging in the area when there’s a swell, and is known for its size and power. There’s also snor- keling, swimming, horseback riding and hiking.

Music is a big part of the culture in the area, with major influence from calypso and reggae. Usually there’s plenty of live music to be found in both Cahuita and Puerto Viejo. Alternatively you can drive the hour to Limón where live bands shake the city all weekend. Like all cities in Costa Rica, Limón has its own festival, held in October. Also, in May the city hosts a music festival.

Apart from the local cuisine – rice and beans, patties, etc. – the South Caribbean has perhaps the largest concentration of excellent restaurants in the country. Cauhita has some excellent local and international cuisine. Down toward Puerto Viejo, and even as far as Playa Chiquita, you can find some of the finest Italian cuisine in the country, as well as Thai fusion, French cuisine, and Spanish pastry shops. The comparatively high concentration of European expatriates and their taste for good food has obviously had an affect on the local restaurant scene.

Puerto Viejo, which has become the more popular town with tourists, can be quite noisy in the center in the evenings, especially during high season around Christmas and New Year. However, most expatriates seem to live outside the town center and in these areas noise is not a problem, with the exception, of course, of the sounds of the jungle.

For early risers, the Caribbean holds the added benefit of the spectacle of the morning sun rising out of the sea. Later in the morning, beach walkers share the spot with youngsters catching bait for the day’s fishing. Those preferring the easy afternoon sunset will want to check out the Pacific side of the country.

South Caribbean: Cahuita – Puerto Viejo – Manzanillo