This beautiful part of the country is relatively inaccessible compared other parts of Costa Rica. This lack of access has, until now, kept development subdued. With its popularity growing fast, however, and other parts of Costa Rica now inaccessible because of their high prices, growth here may be on the way up.

If you are landing in Liberia and then driving down, you have a long trip ahead of you. Once you get to Nicoya, the road becomes progressively worse, and may actually be impassible depending on the time of year. Driving from San Jose is easier, but possibly just as long. First, you must drive two hours to Puntarenas, a provincial capital and port town built on a spit of sand. There, you wait for the regular car ferry to Paquera or Naranjo. Paquera is the most efficient choice as the road from there through Tambor to Cóbano is paved and smooth. From Naranjo to Paquera the roads are pretty bad. If you time it right, you can get from San Jose to Tambor in 4.5 to 5 hours. The roads from Cóbano to Montezuma and to Malpais and Santa Teresa are unpaved, so figure extra time if that’s your final destination.

To fly, catch a domestic Sansa or Nature Air flight to Tambor. Then rent a car or catch a bus or taxi to take you the rest of the way.

Distance-wise, the region is probably closer to San José than is Dominical, but the ferry ride adds waiting time and, while regular, doesn’t depart every half hour. By luck or planning, you have to time it right. If you don’t want to mess with the ferry, your other option is to bypass Puntarenas and take the Tempisque Bridge across the eponymous river. Then you’ll have to tackle the bottom-destroying roads down to the tip of the peninsula. It’s gorgeous if you (and your car’s suspension) can stand the roads.

Foot passengers also have the option of hopping the daily boat service that connects Jacó with Montezuma, a nice option for both tourists and locals who want to get some shopping done. The ferry also serves foot passengers, and in addition to being quite a bit cheaper, sells beer at the little store on the main deck.

Below is a distance table for the main towns and villages of the area. Travel times can vary wildly according to road conditions and the time of year.